Crosses Quilt Tutorial, Part 2, sewing

Make little number tags (or use an old calendar page) to pin to the first piece of every row.  I take the rows down off the design wall in a stack from top to bottom since that is the way I designed the quilt.
You will be sewing 2 rows at a time and this is the way they need to lay, to the right of your machine.  Why to the right?  Because if you lay them to the left they will eventually be knocked on the floor by your work in progress.
The uneven numbered rows (1,3,5 etc.) will always be at the top and even numbered rows (2,4,6 etc.) will be on the bottom (as in the photo above).  Pick up the first 2 pieces from row 1 and sew.  Pick up the first 2 pieces from row 2 and sew.  Don’t take them off your machine.
Snip the thread between the 2 rows and bring row 1 back around to the front of the machine.
Sew piece 3 onto row 1.
Snip the thread between rows 1 and 2 and bring row 2 around to the front of the machine.
Sew piece 3 onto row 2.  Continue in this manner until all of the pieces are sewn in the 2 rows.  Your tags are on the first piece so you will always know which row you are working on.  Seams should be pressed up on uneven numbered rows and down on even numbered rows.  When sewing the rows together there will be one seam that matches about every10″ so you can pin at those spots if you are a pinner.
This photo was taken before I took all of the rows off the design wall.  This one has 20 rows across and equal to 29 squares down so it will end up 40″ x 58″.  You can make it any size you want.  It doesn’t matter if it is an even number of rows across or down.  I was done when I ran out of 2.5″ strips in the box.  You might have a better plan.
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Crosses quilt tutorial, part 1 – designing

You need to start out with a few pieces placed in rows as shown, with each piece overlapping the bottom third of the previous piece.  I am using 2.5″ squares and 6.5″ rectangles but it could be 3″ and 8″ or 3.5″ and 9.5″ if you want larger pieces.
Then I add the 2 side squares for each cross.
The next row to the left starts with the top right corner of each rectangle matching the bottom left corner of the rectangle in the first row.  Notice on the photos below that each vertical row is a sequence of 2 squares, a rectangle, 2 squares, a rectangle, etc.
Now add the 2 squares to finish those crosses.  As you put each piece on the design wall, they should be just touching the fabric above them.  You will not want any overlapping because when you decide to switch a color from one place to another you will have pieces fluttering to the floor if they overlap.  Also when removing rows to sew you don’t want to disturb the next pieces.
If you look at the base of the lightest cross you can see the pieces line up in a horizontal row, but the ones above and below are mismatched slightly.  This is how it will look in the designing stage.
If you look at the pink cross nearest to the top of the quilt, you can see the side squares are not lined up perfectly when designing, but a little farther down the row it is matched perfectly.  They will be perfectly matched when you sew it together.  At this point look over the whole design and see if your colors and values are distributed evenly.
On the upper edge I used 2.5″ squares and 4.5″ rectangles to fill in and make a straight edge.  There are also some single squares in this row.
The lower edge is treated the same as the top with reduced size rectangles.  If you look at the left edge, it is a 6.5″ rectangle and one square with single squares filling in to make the edge even.  Since I was using all scrap pieces of 2.5″ strips, I only had enough to cut the edge filling crosses with some, and enough to make 2 full crosses with others.
I will be doing part 2 on how to take the pieces off the wall and sew them.